Process of manufacturing full-fashioned hosiery



April 10, 1928. 1,665,972 E. o. NEBEL I PROCESS OF MANUFACTURING FULL FASHIONED HOSIERY Filed March 15, 1927 3 sheets -sheet 1 April 10, 1928. 1 ,665,972

E. o. NEBEL PROCESS 0}? MANUFACTURING FULL' FASHIONED HOSIERY Filed March 15. 1927 s Sheets-Shec A ril 10, 1928. 1 1,665,972

E. O. NEBEL PROCESS OF MANUFACTURING FULL FASHIONED HOSIERY Filed March 15. 1927 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 5- Z Zfgqc? Q V WA W4 /5 i112) Q E m U [TE s r ERNST OSCAR NEIBEL, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

PROCESS OF MANUFACTURING FULL-FASHIONED HOSIERY.

Application filed March 15, 1927. Serial No. 175,546.

This invention relates to the manufacture of full-fashioned hosiery, and has for its principal object the-formation of full-fashioned hosiery blanks on a single knitting machine, which eliminates the well known topping operation.

The process involved in manufacturing stockings according to the principles of my invention will be fully disclosed hereinafter,

reference being had to the accompanying drawings, of which:

Fig. 1 shows the lower leg and foot portions of a stocking blank produced according to the principles of my invention;

Fig. 2 shows a plurality of heel tabs formed in a continuous strip;

Figs. 3 and 4 illustrate a pair of heel tabs removed from the strip shown in Fig. 2;

Fig. 5 shows the blank of Fig. 1, split at desired points and the heel tabs of Figs. 3 and 4, inserted and secured to the split blank; I

Fig. 6 illustrates the stocking in its completed form,

Fig. 7 is a diagrammatic view illustrating the manner of forming guide lines at each side of the stocking blank; and

Figs 8 illustrates 'diagraiiimatically the stitches 0f the fabric'atand around the points where "the guide lines are formed in "the blank. My invention comprises the formation of the weltthe upper leg portion,'thenarrowed calf portion, and a part of the spliced heel and instep portions of a stocking blank in the usual manner, on the usual and well known types of flat knitting machines known 'to-the'art as leggers. These portions of the stocking blank are designated by Y spect-ively. Y

the reference characters 1, 2, 3 and 4 re- The usual and well known operations .Which' are employed in the formation of full-fashioned stocking blanks are performed in forming the stocking-blank according torthe principlesof my present invention,including the upper portion 5 of tlic high splice'heel-and down to the l ne 6, at which point, under the usual practice the knitting of the instep portion 7 is discontinued and the formation of integral heel.

tabs is carried on, after which the. blank is removed from "the" legger and passes through the topping operation, wherein the instep stitches and the' inner. selvage "edges of the depending heel .t'absare placed on a topping bar, in a manner to be transferred to the footer, a machine which completes the stocking blank.

The disadvantages-of this topping operation are well known to those familiar with the art. During this operation the percentage of factory seconds is greatly increased, due to dropping stitches, misplacing stitches on the quills of the topping bar and many other forms of misapplication.

The formation of the leg and foot portlOIlS on separate machines also has many disadvantages, such as the formation of different textures in the two parts of the stocking, due to a slight difference in the yarns employed, a variation in the tension of the two yarns on the separate machines, and the mechanical operations of the separate machines themselves.

According to my invention, these objecportions 14, 14 of thefbla'nk from fthe' fnonreinforced instep POIElOD' TtheIGOf'. The continuations of the loose c'o'uises'8 and 10 and the regular courses9, 9 across *theinrespectively, whichdivides the reinforced" step portion 7 are not loose but ar'e'formed in a regular manner." 'The'formation of the remainder of the*foot'='portion 15' of,;the stocking blank then progresses in the usual and well known manner.

. Referring to Figs; 7- and 8 when the-knitting progresses to' the line '6, the body thread a: is thereafter carriedentirely across the stocking blank from the -selvage l2 to. the selvage 11 thereof; the; reinforcing thread y is carried from the selvagef12 to the-:limit line 13, and the rein'forcingthread 'f at the opposite side of xthe'iiblan'k' is carriedfrom the limitlinc, 13, adjacent therrselvage -11, to the. said selvage edge 11.: ar'lfheibody thread m and the reinforcing -;t'hread g 'arethe'n knit together in a manner to: fonmthe loose course 8, from the selvage 12 to theilimit line-13,

the bodythrea-dwbetwecn the limitlines 13,

13 being knit into'a'i'c'ourse'ofregular' stitches Ill) lili

til)

selvage 11 a course of regular reinforced stitches is also formed.

The body thread a; is then carried across the blank in a reverse direction from the selvage edge 11 to the limit line 13 (Fig. 7). Between the selvage edge 11 and the limit line 13*, on this stroke, the loose course 8 at the opposite side of the blank adjacent the selvage 11 is formed. The stitches 7 across the instep portion 7 on this stroke are regularly formed. ,In place of the body thread w and the reinforcing thread y being knit together between the limit line 13 and the selvage 12, on this stroke, the thread y is employed alone to form the first of the intermediate regular guide line courses 9 between the said limit line 13 and the selvage 12.

The body thread w is then moved from the line 13 to the line 13 to form a course of regular stitches 7 between these two limit lines only. The reinforcing thread y, during this movement of the body thread at, is moved from the selvage 12 to the limit line 13 to form the secondcourse of plain regularly formed guide line stitches 9 adjacent the selvage 12; and the reinforcing thread y is moved from the guide line '13 to the selvage 11 to form the first course of regular guide line stitches 9 adjacent the selvage ll.

The body thread w is then moved from the uide line 13- to the selvage 12 and the rein orcing thread yiis moved in a similar direction from the guide line-13 to the selvage 12, the body thread a: between the guide lines 13 and 13 is then knit into a course of regular stitches 7 and between the guide line 13 and the selvage l2'the body thread a: and the reinforcing thread 3 are concurrently knit into the loose course 10,

between the said guide line 13 and the sel-' vage 12. The reinforcing thread 11 at the opposite side of the blank at the same time has been moved from the selvage 11 to the guide line 13 and knit into the second regularly formed course of guide line stitches 9 between the said guide line 13 and the adjacent selvage 11. A

The body yarn m is then moved in a direction from the selvage 12 to the selvage 11; the reinforcing thread '1 is similarly moved from the selvage 12 to the limit line 13 to form together a course of regular reinforced stitches therebetween, and the reinforcing thread 9 is moved from the limit line 13 to the selvage 11to form together with the body thread w the loose course 10, at the side of the blank adjacent the selvage 11; the body thread a: between the limit lines 13 and 13 formin a course of regular non-reinforced stitc es 7.

From this point on the body thread :21 and the two reinforcing threads g and y are passed alternately back and fort? within spectively.

mergers their regular prescribed limits for completin the foot portion 15 of the stocking blank.

Tlpon referring to Fig. 8', it will be noted that the ends of the instep courses 7 b and7c and the ends of the guide line courses 9, 9 adjacent the limit line 13 are in no way connected to each other, which forms a selvage edged hole 30 in the blank. This arrangement permits the stocking blank to be split along the guide lines 9, 9 inward to the hole 30 Without causing any loose end to be formed in the stocking blank, thus 110 runs in the stocking when worn. The body thread w is not cut in forming the split in the blank, thus no loose ends occur in this thread and the thread forming the guide line courses 9, 9, when cut is securely tied into the fabric adjacent the split by the uncut body thread as, in the loose courses 8 and 10 respectively, thus no runs can occur due to the splitting of the blank. This condition is identical at each side of the stocking blank.

The operation above described can be accomplished on any ordinary fiat knitting machine, and the movements of the thread guides to carry the respective threads across the blank, as noted, can be regulated; and the actuation of the needle barto produce the loose courses of stitches at the specified points can be effected by any ordinary skilled mechanic familiar with machines of this character.

On another machine of any desired type, I knit in strip form (Fig. 2) a plurality of heel tabs 20, 20 and across the strip'at stated intervals I form loose courses 21 and 22 which form division lines between the in interconnecting portions 23 of the strip are widened as' at 35 to compensate for' the A difference in the width of the heel tabs at the lines 21 and 22.

The heel tabs 20, 20 areseparated, by cutting or otherwise, at a point within the connecting portions 23 of the strip. The fabric-is then raveled to the line or loose course 21 (Figs. '3 and 4). 1 4

The blank illustrated in Fig. 1 is then split along the guide line formed by the regularly formed courses 9, 9, intermediate the loose courses 8. and 10, on each side of the blank, from the respective selvage edges 11 and 12 inward to the selvage edged holes 30, 30 formed on the limit lines 13 and 13 re- The loose course 8 of the blank, on each side thereof, is then joined with the loose course 21 of one of the'heel tabs 20 and the two loose courses being thereupon connected by means of looping or sewing, as illustrated at 26 in Fig. 5, by any of the well known processes. The selvage edge 25 v of the heel tab isdthen looped or otherwisesecured to the loose course 10 ofthe foot portion of the stocking blank, as clearly lllustrated at 27 in Fig. 5. v The cut ends of the fabric stri extending beyond theloose courses 22 o the heel tabs 20, 20 are raveled to the said loose courses 22.

The stocking blank is now ready to be oined by looping or otherwise securing the selvage edges 11v and 12 of the blank together from the toe line 28 to theitop line of the welt of the stocking. During this operatio'nfthe selvage edges 29, 29 and the loose courses 22, 22 of'the op ositely disosed heel tabs 20, 20 are likewise joined to orm the complete stocking as illustrated in 6. Obviously" the toe tab 30 (Figs. 3

F1 and 5) is raveled or otherwise removed down to the usual toe line loose course 28 before hosiery, comprising the formation of aflat j the stripi stocking blank throughout its entire length on one' full-fashioned hosiery knitting machine; reinforcing the blank. adjacent its opposite edges at the foot and heel portions of the blank; forming successively. a loose course of stitches, a pair of regular courses of stitches and a second loose course of stitches transversely of said reinforced portion at the line of division between the said heel and foot portions of the blank, the connecting part of said successively formed courses which extends across the inste ortion of the blank being of regular stitc es; forming heel tabs independent of the said blank .in the form of a continuous selvage edged strip;' forming loosecourses of stitches transversely of and at mined intervalai throughout the len th of whelibylthe said strip is ivided alternate y into individual heel tabs and sections of cutting-fabric therebetween; cutting the strip intermediate the loose courses at the ends of the individual tabs; raveling the cut fabric down to the said'loose courses; splitting the blank inward from each of theouter edges thereof along the central re larly formedcourses of stitches. located etween the said loose course of stitches ,in each side of the stocking blank; inserting one of said heel tabs in each side: of said blank within thesaid splits; and securing the loose course of oneendof /the :inser'teredeter-.

heel tab to one of the respective adjacent loose course edges formed by the said splith ting of the said blank; securing the other loose course edge said split to an adjacent selvage edge of said.- inserted heel tab; and

securing the outer edges of'said completed blank together, to form a complete stocking 2. A proces of producing full-fashioned hosiery, compr'sing the formation of a flat stocking blank throughout its entire len th on a single full-fashioned hosiery knittmg machine, including the formation of a reinforced high spliced heel and reinforced foot portion and a non-reinforced instep portion; forming a uide line of stitches in said reinforced portion of the blank at each.

side of said blank; forming a selvage edged hole in the blank atthe inner end of each guide line; forming heel tabs independent of the said blank; splitting the blank inward from each of the outer edges thereof on said guide lines to the said selvage edged holes; inserting one of said heel tabs in each side of said blank withiir the said splits; and securing each of a pair of adjacent edges of each inserted heel tab to the respective'adjacent ed es formed by the said splitting'of the said blank.

3. A process of producing full-fashioned hosiery, comprising the formationof a flat stocking blank throughout its entire length on asingle full-fashioned hosiery knitting machine; reinforcing the blank adjacent its opposite edges from the toe to a point intermediate the toe and the narrowed calf of ice the blank; forming a pair of regular courses of stitches in the reinforced portion of the blank at each side of said blank adapted to act as guide lines; forming a selvage edged hole in the fabric at the inner end of said guide line; forming" a course of;;' loose stitches ateach side of and parallel with each pair of said guideline regular courses; forming heel tabs independent of the said blank; splitting the blank inward from each of the outer'edges thereof along said guide line courses to t 1e selvage edged hole at the inner end thereof; insertin one of said heel tabs inv each side of saidlank within the said splits; and securin each of' a pair of adjacent edges of each inserted the respective loose courses comprising the adjacent edges formed by the said splitting ofthe said blank.

4. A process of producing full-fashioned heel tab to hosiery, comprising the formation of a flat stocking blank throughout its entire length on a single flat knitting machine and the employment of a. single body thread "throughout the formation of the entire "blank, wherein the said body thread is first fed to all the needle wales used in the forwhich a reinforcing thread is fed toagiveii number of needle ivales located adjacent each selvage edge of the blank together with the-said body thread for a given number of courses to form a heel reinforced area in each side of the blank, for the next course of stitches to be formed the body thread is fed from one selvage edge of the blank to the needle Wale immediately adjacent the inner edge of the reinforced area at the opposite side ofthe blank the reinforcing thread operating in this reinforced area alone forming the corresponding course of stitches therein and being separated from the stitches formed by. the body thread, the body thread is then fed in a reverse direction to the needle Wale adjacent the inner edge of the reinforced area at the first mentioned side of the blank and the reinforcing thread in this area alone forming the corresponding course of stitches therein being separated from the stitches formed by the body thread, the body thread is then fed in an opposite direction to the oppositely disposed selvage edge of the blank, then back and forth across the entire width of the blank for the remainder of the courses necessary to complete the blank, the said manipulation of the threads forming a cutting line in each reinforced area composed solely of fed to all the needle Wales used in the fortenants mation of the blank from selvage to salvage thereof for a given number of courses, after which a reinforcing thread is fed to a given number of needle wales located adjacent each selvage edge of the blank together With the said body thread for a given number of courses to form a heel reinforced area alone forming the corresponding course of stitches therein and. being separated from the stitches formed by the body thread, the

'body thread is then fed in a reverse direction to the needle Wale adjacent the inner edge of the reinforced area at the first mentioned side of the blank and the reinforcing thread in this area alone forming the corresponding course of stitches therein being separated from the stitches formed by the body thread, the body thread is then fed in an opposite direction'to the oplpositely disposed selvage edge of the blan then back and forth across the entire Width of the J blank for the remainder of the courses necessary to complete the blank, the said manipulation of the theads forming a cutting line in each reinforced area composed solely of the reinforcing threads operating in the respective reinforced areas and forming a selvage edged hole at the inner end of each cutting line whereby the cutting of the body thread at the inner end of each cutting line "is obviated, forming heel tabs independent of. said blank, splitting the blank on said cutting lines, and attaching adjacent edges by the splitting of the blank.

' ERNST OSCAR NEBEL.

of said tabs to the respective edges formed 

